The Adidas Handball Spezial: Why It Keeps Coming Back
I picked up a pair of Handball Spezia in 2019, used them daily for about eight months, and then they went into a drawer. Last winter I dug them out again. They looked exactly the same. That's the thing about this shoe — it doesn't try to change, and that's probably why it still exists. The Handball Spezial dates back to the 1970s when Adidas was making proper team footwear for handball players. It had a suede upper, a rubber outsole with that distinctive herringbone pattern, and a pretty simple construction by modern standards. The Samba came first, obviously, but the Handball Spezial carved out its own space with a slightly different toe cap and a more generous fit through the forefoot. People who know the difference can spot it. Most people can't, and that doesn't matter.
Unstoppable The Timeless Appeal Of Adidas Handball Spezial
Here's what actually happened with my pair. The midsole cracked around month six, right where the flex point sits under the ball of the foot. This isn't unusual for the Handball line — the foam compound Adidas uses is firmer than what you'd find on a running shoe, which means it lasts longer overall but develops stress cracks faster at that exact bend point. I tried shoe glue once. Didn't hold. Ended up wearing them until the upper itself started looking shot, which took another four months. The cracks don't affect structure, just appearance. That's worth knowing before you buy. If you're after something that stays pristine for years, look elsewhere. The Handball Spezial ages in a specific way. The suede softens, the creasing patterns set in permanently, and the sole develops those characteristic cracks. Some people hate this. I found it part of the point.
What Makes the Construction Different
The original Handball Spezial uses a gum rubber outsole that's vulcanized to the upper. This is the same basic method as the Samba and the Gazelle, but the Handball model has a thicker midsole profile and a slightly rounded toe compared to the Samba's sharper edge. The upper is full grain suede, not the synthetic mix you'll find on cheaper retro releases. That's why the price gap exists between the originals and the budget variants. Inside, there's a leather lining and a footbed that's fairly flat. No arch support worth mentioning. If you have high arches or need orthotics, you'll probably swap the insole out immediately. I replace mine every six months or so with a thin Superfeet insert. Costs about twelve dollars and makes the shoe feel completely different. The sizing runs true to Adidas standards from that era, which means roughly a half size larger than Nike. A UK 9 in the Handball Spezial fits like a US 9.5 in most modern sneakers. Don't size down thinking it'll give you a snugger fit. The suede stretches. It always does.
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The Colorways That Actually Matter
The white/navy/gum combo is the one everyone knows. It's on every streetwear feed and costs around one hundred and ten dollars retail. Then there's the black/white version, which is slightly less visible and therefore slightly less likely to show scuffs. The green/gum colorway from the original 1970s production runs is the one collectors chase. Authentic pairs from that era go for three or four figures depending on condition. The recent re-releases copy the colors but use different rubber compounds, so the gum sole comes out slightly darker and harder. I own three pairs. The white/navy is my daily rotator. The black one handles worse weather because scuffs don't show. The third pair is a vintage batch from the early 2000s that I bought used. The sole on that one is already cracked, but the upper is better leather than anything Adidas makes now. I keep it for shows mostly.
Where the Shoe Falls Short
Flat footbed. Minimal cushioning. The gum sole is durable but transmits every vibration from hard surfaces. Walking on concrete for more than an hour will fatigue your feet if you're not used to it. This was a court shoe designed for indoor handball, not a lifestyle sneaker meant for all-day standing. Adidas knew this when they made it, and they knew people would wear it anyway. They never changed the design to accommodate that. Water is another issue. Suede absorbs moisture quickly and takes a long time to dry. I learned this the hard way in November. The shoes got soaked through a light rain, I stuffed them with newspaper, and left them by a radiator. The suede hardened into stiff patches that never fully recovered. I kept the shoes anyway. They're wearable now, just not as comfortable as they were before the incident. There's also the matter of availability. Adidas produces the Handball Spezial in rotation, not continuously. Certain colorways disappear for six to twelve months between drops. If you want a specific pair and it's sold out, there's no restock date Adidas publishes. Secondary markets exist, but prices for deadstock pairs in common sizes have climbed steadily over the past five years.
How to Keep Them in Reasonable Shape
Use a suede protector spray before the first wear. I use Crep Protect or a similar product. Reapply every few months if you wear them regularly. It won't stop creasing, but it does slow down stain absorption significantly. For cleaning, a soft suede brush and a damp cloth work better than anything liquid-based. Avoid soaking the upper. The gum sole can be scrubbed with a magic eraser or a small amount of baking soda paste, then rinsed carefully. Let them air dry away from direct heat. I've ruined pairs by putting them on a heater too close. Rotation matters. If you wear the same pair every day, the midsole compresses unevenly and the creases deepen faster. I rotate between my white/navy and black pairs, which has extended the life of both noticeably compared to when I wore one pair exclusively.
The Bottom Line
The Handball Spezial isn't comfortable in a way that modern sneaker culture expects. It doesn't have Boost or ZoomX or any of the padding language people associate with good footwear now. It's a flat, minimal, suede shoe from the seventies that survived because it looks decent with jeans and doesn't try to be something it's not. That restraint is probably why it has lasted this long when so many trends from the same era are gone. If you want pristine sneakers that look new after a year, this isn't the shoe. If you're okay with gradual wear and don't mind the sole eventually cracking at the flex point, it's a reasonable purchase at retail price. Above two hundred on the secondary market, I wouldn't bother unless it's a specific vintage colorway you can't find anywhere else.
