Putting Miles on a Twenty-Four-Year-Old Ford Explorer
The 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer trim was essentially the luxury package version of the third-generation XLT. It came with leather seating, wood grain interior trim, upgraded audio, and usually the 4.0L SOHC V6. Underneath, it shared most of its hardware with every other Explorer of that year. The Eddie Bauer branding was mostly cosmetic, but there were a few real differences worth noting if you are actually planning to work on one.The Enduring Expedition Dissecting The 2000 Ford Eddie Bauer
Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let me clarify something most people miss. The 2000 Explorer is not technically an "Expedition." Ford used the Explorer name for their mid-size SUV and the Expedition for their full-size truck-based SUV. People conflate them constantly, which leads to ordering the wrong parts. The 2000 Eddie Bauer was an Explorer, built on the platform that shared underpinnings with the Mazda B Series. That matters when you are looking for suspension components or replacement parts online. The 4.0L SOHC V6 in this engine was Ford's workhorse for nearly two decades. It produced 210 horsepower and 254 pound-feet of torque. That sounds modest by today's standards, but these engines routinely reach 200,000 miles with basic maintenance. The real issue is not the block or the heads. It is everything attached to them.
Known Failure Points
The upper control arm bushings are the first thing to worry about. Ford used polyurethane-style bushings that harden and crack over time. When they go, you get vague steering, uneven tire wear, and a general sense that the front end is loose. Replacing them requires a control arm press or a full arm swap. I have seen people try to just knock the old bushings out and hammer new ones in. It works poorly. The tolerances are tight and you end up with misaligned arms that bind during suspension travel. The crankshaft position sensor is another classic failure point. It sits at the front of the engine, near the harmonic balancer. When it starts to fail, the engine will stall unexpectedly, usually when warm. You might get a no-start condition that comes and goes. This is not a diagnostic guess. The symptom pattern is so consistent that many mechanics replace this sensor on sight when they hear about stalling issues. The fix is straightforward but annoying. You need to remove the serpentine belt, undo two 8mm bolts, and pry the sensor loose from the timing cover. It takes about twenty minutes if you have the right tools. The transfer case shift motor on 4x4 models fails more often than people expect. You might notice the four-wheel drive indicator light flickering or the system refusing to engage. The motor itself is an electric actuator mounted on top of the transfer case. It burns out from internal wear. Replacement involves unbolting three bolts and disconnecting an electrical connector. The whole job takes roughly forty-five minutes. After replacement, you need to cycle the system through engagement modes to let the PCM relearn the positions.
The rear differential breathers are overlooked during maintenance. These Explorers have a tendency to leak rear pinion seals when the breather gets clogged. Pressure builds up inside the housing and forces fluid past the seal. Check the breather tube on the differential cover. If it is stuffed with road grime, clean it out. This simple task can prevent a thousand-dollar seal replacement down the road.
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Timing Chain Tensioners
The 4.0L SOHC has dual overhead cams driven by timing chains. The hydraulic tensioners on these chains degrade over high mileage. When they fail, you get a distinctive rattling noise on cold startup that lasts about three seconds. Some owners ignore this. Do not. A failed tensioner can lead to chain slap that damages the timing chain guides and potentially causes the chains to skip teeth. At worst, this means bent valves. At best, it means a expensive timing service. Replacing the tensioners requires removing the valve covers, the timing chains, and the cam gears. It is a three-to-four-hour job for someone who has done it before. First-timers should budget a full day. The parts kit from a reputable supplier runs about eighty dollars. The chain guides are usually worn at the same time, so replace those too. OEM parts from Ford are available but the aftermarket brands like Carquest or Dorman fit just as well for this application.
Transmission Considerations
The automatic transmission paired with this engine is the 4R70W, also known as the A4LD in some applications. It is a robust design but sensitive to fluid conditions. If the fluid is dark brown or smells burnt, the transmission has seen better days. Fresh fluid should be a bright red color. Changing the fluid and filter every sixty thousand miles extends transmission life significantly. The pan bolts are 10mm, and the drain plug is a standard 3/8 inch hex. Use Mercon V fluid. Do not use the older Mercon specification, as the friction modifiers are different and can cause shift quality issues. I had a 2000 Eddie Bauer come through my shop with a harsh shift between second and third gear. The owner had not changed the fluid in over one hundred thousand miles. A simple fluid and filter change resolved the issue completely. There is no need for a flush. A drain and fill removes about six quarts of the nine-quart total capacity. Running the engine and cycling through gears after the fill helps distribute the new fluid. Check the level with the transmission at operating temperature using the dipstick.
Interior and Electronics
The Eddie Bauer interior trim uses a vinyl-wrapped dashboard that cracks and deteriorates under sun exposure. This is not a safety issue, but it is annoying. Replacement dashboards are available from salvage yards for around two hundred dollars. The HVAC blend door actuators are also prone to failure. When one goes, you get no heat or no air conditioning on one side of the cabin. The actuators are located behind the dashboard, which makes replacement a multi-hour job. Some owners replace them without removing the dash by using specialized tools and working through the footwell area. It is tight but doable. The instrument cluster gauges can develop intermittent failures. Speedometer, fuel gauge, or temperature readings might freeze or drop to zero. This is usually a bad solder joint on the cluster circuit board rather than a sensor problem. Removing the cluster involves undoing four Phillips head screws and disconnecting the electrical connector. Opening the cluster and touching up the solder joints with a fine-tip iron fixes most gauge issues. I have done this on at least a dozen clusters over the years with a high success rate.
Where to Source Parts
Ford part numbers for the 2000 Explorer Eddie Bauer are widely available online. Use the part numbers directly rather than relying on compatibility charts, which often include incorrect fitments. The Ford parts catalog lists the exact number for each application. Cross-reference those numbers with aftermarket equivalents from suppliers like RockAuto, which typically prices parts at forty to sixty percent below dealer pricing. For critical components like timing chains and tensioners, stick with name brands. Cheap Chinese timing components have caused premature failures in these engines. Suspension parts are plentiful from sources like Oreilly, AutoZone, and RockAuto. I prefer the Moog brand for control arm bushings and ball joints. Their designs often incorporate updated materials that address the original Ford weaknesses. For the crankshaft position sensor, Motorcraft is the way to go. Aftermarket copies of this sensor fail at higher rates than most other components.
Realistic Expectations
A 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer with proper maintenance can be a reliable daily driver. Expect to invest a few hundred dollars annually in routine wear items. The suspension, brakes, and fluids are recurring costs. Major repairs like timing services or transmission work are infrequent but costly when they arise. The body and frame can develop rust, particularly in the wheel wells and along the rocker panels. Inspect the frame rails for corrosion before purchasing a used example. Frame rust is not something you can repair cheaply. These vehicles were common on the road in 2000, so finding one for sale is easy. Finding a clean one with a documented maintenance history is harder. Look for single-owner vehicles with service records. Those are the rare finds. Most of these Explorers have been driven hard and maintained minimally. A thorough pre-purchase inspection by a qualified mechanic is essential. The cost of an inspection is trivial compared to the cost of buying a problematic vehicle.
